Holy City of Varanasi

Varanasi was everything I expected of India - very chaotic and great at the same time! This is my favourite place in India so far. My sister and I thought that we would get lost everyday on the narrows corridors of this crazy city, but we soon found our way and started discovering the hidden secrets of this holy city.

View from Ganges River Steps

Our hotel was located at Meer Ghat, in the Old City area (Alka Hotel, photos on Tripadvisor). We arrived there around 6am, after a 16 hours train trip. While Dine resteded the hotel room, I went to the balcony to watch the sunrise. It was an amazing feeling seeing the Ganges River for the first time! It felt like I was the only person awaken in the city. I felt at peace being there on my own.

Sunrise in Varanasi, View from Hotel Balcony

Ganges River at Varanasi

HOLY WATER

Ganges River plays a sacred role in the lives of Indian people. They do pretty much everything on and by the river. They drink the holy water, bath themselves, bath their animals, wash their clothes, receive a massage, preach sacred teachings and hold holy ceremonies by the river.

Bathing in the Ganges River

Animal Bathing

Doing their Washing

Massage Beds & Holy Teachings by the River

CREMATIONS

The most important of all Indian people use Ganges River for, is to cremate their loved ones and throw the ashes into the holy water. This is to purify the soul of the dead as they live this world. Although babies, pregnant women, people who have been bit by a snake (cobra) and animals are thrown into the river without being cremated. The reason being is because they are considered holy in the eyes of Indian people. There are no photos of cremations, as tourists are not allowed to take photos of these ceremonies for respect of the deceased people and their families.

BOAT RIDE ON GANGES RIVER

A boat ride is a ‘must do’ in Varanasi. Most people will go for a ride in the early hours of the day to watch the sunrise, which is quite spectacular. For those ones not wishing to walk from one place to another, they can use the boats as a taxi. The prices will vary according to the size of the boat. Dine and I paid $100 rupees each for one hour ride. Although we ended up tipping another 100 rupees to Pradip  (our lovely 15 year old boat rower),  as we felt sorry for him paddling against the flowing current and under the hot sun.

Boat Ride on Ganges River

NUMBER ONE LASSI DRINK IN VARANASI

A shop called ‘Blue Lassi’, which has been serving the traditional Indian drink ‘lassi’ for more than seven decades is a must stop in Varanasi. Dine and I went to this place to drink a lassi everyday. They had a huge menu list with with various flavours of lassi, but we always ended up ordering the same, our favourite plain sweet lassi. J

Best Lassi in Varanasi

HOLY CEREMONY BY THE RIVER

Every evening a holy ceremony is held on the Dasaswamedth Ghat. It goes for about one hour and anyone can attend it, free of charge. Peoplen can watch this ceremony on the Ganges Steps or on the boats available for a ride at a very low price.

Evening Ganga Aarti Ceremony, Dasaswamedth Ghat

People watching this ceremony will just be approached by many locals to buy different kinds and sizes of purja (offerings to the goddesses). This offering can be any God you believe in. My purja was a little tray with some yellow Marigold flowers and a candle on it.

 

Placing my Purja on Ganges River

As everyone walked by on the many steps of Ganges River,  some remained unaffected by all the frenzy taking place around them. Such people had to be saints or Sadhus, as they are commonly called in India. We watched a Sadhu from our balcony everyday. He seemed to be very friendly, smiling at our tourists who wanted to take a photo of him or with him. We met some skeptical Indians, who said that nowadays most Sadhus are fake saints using their position to get money effortlessly from people, who believe in their sanctity.  

Sadhu - Holy Man

During our stay in Varanasi there was a big festival taking place, so the city was in full swing, with a lovely atmosphere. There were live music and dance presentations nearly every night. By the time we left Varanasi, the city was packed with Indian people, all looking for a spot to bath themselves in the holy waters of Ganges River. Dine and I ventured to bless our tip toes in the river!

Goodbye Varanasi

Goodbye to Tibetan Bir & the Monks

Gift to the Monks

Before we said farewell to Bir, we left a gift to the monks. Dine and I bought paints to decorate their classroom, which was in desperate need of some TLC. We asked the help of other volunteers, who were teaching in other monasteries to do the job. After two days, their smelly and damp classroom was transformed into a very pleasant space to learn.
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Classroom before Painting

The monks were very excited watching us and the other volunteers painting and they wanted to help too! They helped us moving all the furniture out of the classroom and bring them back a couple of days later.  

Painting Squad I: Chris, Josh, Clau, Luke & Dawa

Painting Squad II: Dine, Raji and Monks Dorjee & Passang

The monks also helped us painting, but they were making a big mess and wasting a lot of paint, so we send them off the room back to their outdoor English class. They were not happy, but we had the last word. J

Outdoor Class with Volunteers Paula & Maili (Mother & Daughter)

The monks were very kind and brought chai (Indian tea) to all volunteers.  It was a lovely surprise, which brought a smile to our faces!

Phurba serving te to our Volunteer Coordinator Dawa

It was great to see their classroom freshly painted. Although it wasn’t a job meticulously done, all the volunteers felt happy with the final results. The list of happy people included the monks, the monastery runners, our Project Coordinator Dawa and our host-sister Yeshi, who loves this monastery!

Classrom after Painting

GOODBYE TO TIBETAN BIR

Sadly, our time in Tibetan Bir came to an end. Our four weeks in this tiny village went so fast! We really enjoyed spending time with the Tibetan people and learning about their culture. It was also a great experience teaching English to the young monks in the Buddhist monastery.

Tibetan Women dressed in Traditonal Outfit

We say goodbye to this wonderful Tibetan community, whom brought so much warmth to our hearts, especially our great monk students!

Goodbye to our Playful Monk Students

Our next stop is the holy city of Varanasi. After that we will head to our final destination in Cochin, Kerala state. There we will stay in an ashram immersing ourselves into the world of yoga and meditation.

Trekking in Dharamsala

Having the weekends free to ourselves, Dine and I, together with our dear South African friend and volunteer Chris, headed to Dharamsala again to hike up one of its most popular mountains - Triund. Dine and I were thrilled to climb a mountain which is part of the Middle Himalayan Mountain Range.

Dine and I with Trekking Guide Sonu

According to our trekking guide Sonu, it’s a distance of about 9 Kilometers to reach the top of this mountain, taking approximately 8 hours depending on one’s fitness. Triund is 2.875 meters above sea level. The hike is not very steep and there are plenty of shacks along the way, where hikers can buy food and drinks to refresh themselves. We paid 300 rupees each to Sonu for a group of 3 people. His mobile 9816 136 355 / 9736 542 849. He was a great company and very knowledgeable.

Stopping for a chai at 'The Best View Cafe'

During our trekking we saw a variety of animals, which couldn’t really be classified as ‘wildlife’. We met plenty of friendly homeless dogs along the way. We also passed through a caravan of donkeys carrying supplies to the tea shops spread throughout the mountains. It was a sad sight watching these animals carrying such heavy loads on their backs up and down the mountain. I couldn’t help feeling sorry for them, but as I often heard Indian people say ‘we all have our duties in life’. Some just seem to have it a lot harder than others.

Donkeys carrying supplies to the Mountain shops

After 4 hours walking, with many stops along the way to appreciate the scenery and take some photos, we reached the top. The view was stunning (even the cold weather did not spoil it one bit!).

Dine & I reached Triund's Summit

For our friend Chris it was a time to meditate.

Meditating in the Himalayas

As for me, I couldn’t stand still for very long due to the freezing temperature up on the mountain, but I did sit quietly for a moment to greet the huge Himalayan Mountains in front of me. I also thought about my journey, trotting around Africa and India for the past 5 months, and how grateful I was to have a chance to embark on this trip.

Quite time enjoying the stunning view

 

Some people cannot understand why trekkers go through so much effort hiking up mountains. Dine and I left Triund in such high spirits! That’s why we go trekking!

Volunteer Work in Tibetan Bir

Bir is our last stop volunteering in India. This small town is located in Himachal Pradesh State and is about two hours on road from Dharamsala. There are four villages in Bir: Upper Bir, Bir-Billing, Tibetan Bir and Bir Road. My sister and I are staying in Tibetan Bir, which is mostly populated by Tibetan refugees, like Dharamsala.  Here we will teach English for four weeks to young monks in a Buddhist Monastery.

Chokling Monastery

Chokling Temple

According to Dawa, our Volunteer Project Coordinator, the Chokling Monastery was built about 30 years ago. He said that most of the young monks living in this monastery are orphans and were brought to Chokling by their family members. Others were brought by poor parents, who had no means of supporting them and thought that life in a monastery would give their children a better start in life, with food, education and a decent roof over their heads. I felt to me that the monastery is pretty much like an orphanage, with the difference that here the kids wear red robes and follow a different religion.

Young Monks outside the School Building 



Although the Monastery and the Temple look beautifully decorated on the outside, with vibrant colours and drawings, it’s a different story inside the classroom. As soon as we open the door there is an awful smell of damp  and the walls look very dirty. It’s in desperate need of some TLC! Dawa explained to us that the school has no existing sponsorship. He said that the money people donate to the temple has to be spent on the temple and not in the school.

Classroom



Dine and I are teaching English to an average of 25 students, between the ages of 6 and 16 years old. The young monks have a great sense of humor. Just like the children in Kenya, here they go nuts to have star stickers stamped on their notebooks, after copying the lessons from the blackboard. On our first day, we joined Grace, a volunteer from Australia, who brought her laptop to the classroom  to play the ‘Monsters INC’ cartoon to the monks. Most of the monks, small and big, couldn’t take their eyes of the small screen. J

Monks watching cartoon 'Monsters INC'

On Grace’s last day in the monastery, a week after we had arrived, she organized a farewell party with the monks in the football field. When we arrived, the party was well under way, with the monks enjoying themselves playing a football match. This was the first time we saw them without their red robes.

Football Match

Some others, like young Tenzin, 6 y.o., preferred to play with their mobile phone! On the photo below Tenzin was showing me a video of a football match with Ronaldo, a famous Brazilian football player. He also showed me his favourite music video clip of Justin Bieber and took a photo of me. He could use his mobile better than I do with mine!

Tenzin and I watching Justin Bieber video clip

TIBETAN HOST FAMILY HOUSE

Our new home in Bir is a huge three story house. We are staying with Dawa’s family (our project coordinator and now host-brother!).  His elderly father and elderly brother don’t speak much English, so we get to interact very little with them. Yeshi, his older sister, can manage some English, which is very handy since she helps out the volunteers when Dawa is not around. She is very caring and cooks delicious meals! Currently, we are in 8 volunteers in the house, from Brazil, Australia, South Africa, England and Canada.

Host Family House in Bir 

TIBETAN FLAGS

The Tibetan flags can be seen everywhere in Dharamsala and Bir. The great shot below was taken by Dine from the rooftop in our new home in Bir. According to our host brother Dawa, these flags bring good luck to the Tibetan families.

Tibetan Flags on the Rooftop

PARAGLIDING IN BIR-BILLING

During our first days in Bir we found the town packed with foreigners. We were told by another volunteer that apparently Bir is one of the best places in the world to go paraglinding. Who would have thought, in such a small town in the middle of nowhere! We met some nice paragliders, who are renting out some rooms in the house, to join in a paragliding competition happening in Bir at the moment. One of them, to our surprise, could speak very good Portuguese! These paragliders are most welcome by the Bir residents, as they bring a good income to this small town every year.

Paraglader in Bir-Billing

One afternoon, Dine and I went to the Paragliders Landing Site, which was a 10 minutes’ walk from our house. It was so peaceful watching them landing. They all looked like they knew what they were doing. Although we heard from other volunteers that some paragliders have a very rough landing and have to cope with the embarrassment of everyone laughing around them. J They also seemed to be very fit to be able to carry their huge backpacks with their paragliding gear inside them. 

Paragliding Landing Site in Bir-Billing

Dalai Lama’s Home in India

Our time in Delhi came to an end. Now, my sister and I are in Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh state), which is Dalai Lama’s hometown in India. This stunning place is surrounded by hills, which belong to the Himalayan mountain range. Its residents are mostly Tibetan refugees, who took exile here and in the neighboring areas to escape China’s dictatorship in their country.

Dharamsala, North of India

In Dharamsala the cows also wander freely on the streets, just like in Delhi. The only difference is that here the streets are a lot narrower than Delhi, making it a challenge sharing the space with these big animals as well as the cars, motorbikes, tuk tuks, jeeps, buses and trucks. But it’s all part of the journey and Dine and I seemed to be getting used to it, the more time we spend in India.

Cows wandering on the streets of Dharamsala

It was a pleasure to go shopping in the street market in this town. The Tibetan people didn’t hassle us at all to buy their merchandises, like the Indians in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur did. We also felt that that they didn’t charge us exorbitant tourist prices for their goods like the Indian people did.

DALAI LAMA'S IN TOWN!

When we arrived in Dharamsala, we found the place packed with Western tourists, mostly looking like hippies, wearing baggy clothes and with long hair, in dreadlock style. It didn’t take long to find why this little town, which looks more like a village, was so crowded. Dalai Lama, the most important person in Dharamsala was in town! Dine and I were overly excited to know that on the very next day, we would be able to listen to His Holiness’s teachings in his temple (free of charge!). After that, we had to queue up for about an hour to make our registration for the next day.

Buddha Statue inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dawa, our Volunteer Project Coordinator, took us for a quick visit to Dalai Lama’s temple (Tsuglagkhang Temple), which is located in McLeod Ganj, upper Dharamsala. We also saw his house from the outside, which is easily positioned in front of the temple. Both places looked very simple, without all the ostentation of the temples in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra. Although this was somehow expected since Dalai Lama leads a modest life. In the temple, we saw that many people had already reserved their seats for the next day, placing thin mattresses on the floor with their name on them.

Inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dalai Lama's House in Dharamsala

TIBETAN PRAYER WHEELS

The prayer wheel, also known as Mani wheel, is a cylindrical wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, stone, leather or cotton. Traditionally, the mantra (prayer) “Om Mani Padme Hum” is written in the Sanskrit language on the outside of the wheel. According to the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, spinning a prayer wheel will have the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. We saw many pilgrims spinning the prayer wheels as they walked around Dalai Lama’s temple.

Prayer Wheel at Dalai Lama's Temple

The most common meaning offered for the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is usually “Behold! The jewel in the lotus!” or “Praise to the jewel in the lotus.” Although it is almost impossible to give one exact meaning for this mantra since it has been interpreted in many ways.

  

THE BIG DAY!

The next day, Dine and I arrived one hour before Dalai Lama’s teaching was due to start. I really thought that we were going to listen to him from the outside gate of the temple. However to my surprise we got really good seats, not far from Dalai Lama’s seating chair, thanks to a goodhearted Tibetan family who made some space for us to sit next to them. This family also lent us a small wool rug each, since they saw that we were totally unprepared for the occasion.

THE TEMPLE'S RITUALS
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Prior to the teaching starting, the temple’s monks served tea to the visitors, who had brought their own mugs with them. Once again, the friendly Tibetan family came to our rescue, lending us one of their mugs. I had a big frown on my face after my first sip of Tibetan tea. It tasted extremely salty to me. I later found out that they add butter and salt to their tea. Dine and I didn’t bring any snacks with us, but it wasn’t a problem since the Tibetan family also shared their mandarin with us. We were so moved with their generosity, as in Delhi and in other parts of India, we felt that all people wanted to do was take from us (especially dollars!), but here we found Tibetan people to be very generous. I thought that perhaps their attitude had to do with the Buddhism teachings of compassion towards all live beings. I felt very happy to be in this place and next to this wonderful Tibetan people.

The biggest moment arrived, when Dalai Lama took the few steps from his house to the temple, crossing right in front of where Dine and I were seated. The experience of awe was felt by many people, bringing tears to their eyes (including my sister!). As for me, I had the biggest smile on my face. It felt like I was seeing a big movie celebrity and felt starstruck! J There were people from all over the world in the temple. To cater for all the different languages, foreigners had to purchase a small radio and earphones to listen to the simultaneous translations being broadcasted in different radio stations.

Radio & Earphones to listen to Dalai Lama's Teachings

Dalai Lama’s talking of tolerance towards others as a means of finding inner peace and leading a happier life, made Dine and I stop to reflect on his words on that day. As we left the temple, we decided to try to be more tolerant towards Indian men, who had annoyed us so much in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur (following us to our house, inside shopping malls, on the streets...). Many of them also stared and smiled at us in a way that made us feel extremely uncomfortable.  They had a sleaze smile. As of today, with our spirits lifted towards humankind, we will try to give Indian men another chance! (Photo below taken from the Internet - no cameras allowed during Dalai Lama's teachings).

The 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet

Lama is an honorific title applied to a spiritual leader in Tibetan Buddhism: "the Dalai Lama". At the age of two, Tenzin Gyatso was recognized as the reincarnation of the 13th Dalai Lama. Thirteen years later, in 1950, he was enthroned as the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet. The Dalai Lama escaped from Tibet and fled to India in 1959, due to the Chinese occupation in his country. The Indian Prime Minister Nehru, although a follower of the Hindu religion, let the Dalai Lama set up a government-in-exile just across the Tibet-India border, in Dharamsala, as this town already had an established Tibetan community and Buddhist monasteries.

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Although living in India for the last 53 years, Dalai Lama was the Political Leader of Tibet until 2011, when he announced his retirement from political life and Dr. Lobsang Sangay was appointed for this position. Dalai Lama still remains the Spiritual Leader of the Tibetan people.

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To learn more about Tibetan’s history you can watch a very revealing 30 minute documentary on the Internet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HhKF4_-9g8&noredirect=1  - The Burning Question: Why are Tibetans Turning to Self-Immolation?
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Being in the presence of Dalai Lama in India was a big gift for me during this trip.

Sightseeing in Delhi

Amongst so much pollution, noisy and big crowds of people and animals on the streets of Delhi, it’s possible to find some incredibly peaceful and beautiful places within the city to escape its daily craziness.

Initially my sister and I had planning on exploring Delhi via metro, but we soon realized that it would take a lot more days than only a weekend to do this. It was also a challenge asking Indian people on the streets information on how to find the places, as most of them speak only Hindi. Arriving at the Red Fort, in Old Delhi, we spotted various tour guides with their four wheel drive Jeeps parked near the fort. Fortunately, they spoke English! We hired a guide for around US$20 dollars each. We found this an easier and inexpensive way of travelling around Delhi. Rajits mobile number 9213 536 303.

Tour Guide Rajit with Dine in Delhi

 NEW AND OLD DELHI

The capital city of Delhi has a population of nearly 14 million people, being the second largest metropolitan city in India (Mumbai being the first).  The city is divided into Old and New Delhi.

Old Delhi is chaotic and dirty with old building constructions (like they are going to fall apart at any moment). Riding on a rickshaw (bicycle carriage) trough Chandni Chowk’s Market Street, in Old Delhi, made me fell claustrophobic and a bit fearful, since it was getting dark and we had waved farewell to our tour guide. Although after watching Dine enjoying herself seating next to me, I decided to change my mindset looking at it as another adventure, which did help to put me at easy.

Messy Street in Old Delhi - Chandni Chowk Market

New Delhi was developed by the British, with elegant building constructions well preserved to this day. This part of the city was formally inaugurated as New Delhi in 1931. New Delhi is clean and vastly surrounded by beautiful old trees. It comes as no surprise that most tourists will stay in New Delhi when they come to the capital city of India.

President House alongside Parliament House - New Delhi

LOTUS TEMPLE

My favourite place in Delhi was the Bahai Temple or Lotus temple, which resembles the Sydney Opera House, but with a shape of a lotus flower instead. The difference between the two buildings is that the temple has its petals turned inward and the second has its petals turned outward. The Lotus temple is also surrounded by swimming pools of fresh water and the Opera House is surrounded by sea water.

Lotus Temple

This was a challenging construction as the building has no pillars to support itself. The completion of the temple took 10 years, being inaugurated in 1986. It has 27 petals and is surrounded by 9 swimming pools, which help to cool down the temple naturally. The room inside the temple accommodates 2500 people. Its lotus structure is made of white marble, which is the Indian national symbol of spiritual growth. (Photo below taken from the Internet)

Aerial View of Lotus Temple

This was the only temple in India so far, where I really felt at peace and actually sat down to pray. It’s not allowed to take photos inside the temple, which I believe contributes to create its peaceful and quiet atmosphere. It also stood out for me that this temple has no images of Gods as they embrace all religions. (Photo below taken from the Internet)

Room inside Lotus Temple

It’s free to visit this temple, compared to many others, where they charge tourists a significant amount of rupees to get in. It seemed to me that in this temple their main concern wasn’t making money, but truly getting people to be in touch with God. I left this place feeling uplifted.

My Favourite Temple in Delhi

MAHATMA GANDHI MEMORIAL

Raj Ghat is a beautiful and well kept garden built in Gandhi’s honor, one of the biggest personalities in India. In the middle of the garden there is a platform built in black marble, where Gandhi was cremated in 1948.  Although his ashes are not kept in this garden, they were thrown into the Ganges River. It’s free to visit this park, which is open from 6am to 6pm.

Raj Chat Park

Mahatma Gandi's Place of Cremation

Gandhi’s work owned him the title of ‘Mahatma’ in India, meaning a person who is greatly revered for his goodness and knowledge. Son of a politician and graduated in Law, Gandhi was a very polemic personality in India. He was nominated to the Nobel Peace Prize five times, although he never received this award.

The Golden Gandhi Statue at National Gandhi Museum

Gandhi Smriti was the house where Gandhi lived until the day of his assassination. He was shot by a Hindu radical, who blamed him for weakening the Indian Government. Although even after his assassination, Gandhi’s legacy is still strongly felt throughout India. There are several museums in Delhi exhibiting his nonviolence philosophy in India and other parts of the world. Gandhi’s house also turned into a museum, free of entry.

Gandhi Smriti Museum

Place of Gandhi's Assassination

INDIRA GANDHI MEMORIAL MUSEUM

Indira Gandhi was another great leader in Indian politics. Similarly to Gandhi’s fate, Indira was assassinated in her own house. She was shot by her two private bodyguards in 1984. Indira’s murders, who belonged to the ‘Sikh’ religion, blamed Indira for a big bloodshed of Sikhs in Amritsar, due to religious disputes. They revenged the Sikhs’s deaths with Indira’s killing. Nowadays, Indira’s house stands as a memorial in her honor and a museum exhibiting her private and political life.

Indira Gandhi's Memorial Museum

Indira Gandhi's Place of Assassination

Due to Indira’s surname, she can be mistakenly considered as part of Mahatma Gandhi’s family by some (myself included here!). Indira received Gandhy’s name after her marriage to Jehangir Gandhy, which later on was changed to ‘Gandhi’. Some Indian people say that Indira used her ‘Gandhi’ surname to win votes during her political campaign, making people believe that she was related to Mahatma Gandhi. Indira became the first Prime Minister of India in 1966. Indira’s work was renowned worldwide.

Although Indira has no family relation to Gandhi, they shared many things in common, such as having the same name, being children of politicians, becoming great leaders and ultimately having the same fate of being assassinated in their own house.

INDIA GATE

Also known as the ‘All Indian Wall Memorial’, this National monument was another place we visited, also related to the bloodshed of many lives. This gate was inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, standing 42 meters tall. It was built in 1931 in honor of the 90,000 Indian soldiers, who lost their lives fighting during the First World War in the British Indian Army. The Indian Gate is situated in the heart of New Delhi and the visit is free.

India Gate