Dalai Lama’s Home in India

Our time in Delhi came to an end. Now, my sister and I are in Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh state), which is Dalai Lama’s hometown in India. This stunning place is surrounded by hills, which belong to the Himalayan mountain range. Its residents are mostly Tibetan refugees, who took exile here and in the neighboring areas to escape China’s dictatorship in their country.

Dharamsala, North of India

In Dharamsala the cows also wander freely on the streets, just like in Delhi. The only difference is that here the streets are a lot narrower than Delhi, making it a challenge sharing the space with these big animals as well as the cars, motorbikes, tuk tuks, jeeps, buses and trucks. But it’s all part of the journey and Dine and I seemed to be getting used to it, the more time we spend in India.

Cows wandering on the streets of Dharamsala

It was a pleasure to go shopping in the street market in this town. The Tibetan people didn’t hassle us at all to buy their merchandises, like the Indians in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur did. We also felt that that they didn’t charge us exorbitant tourist prices for their goods like the Indian people did.

DALAI LAMA'S IN TOWN!

When we arrived in Dharamsala, we found the place packed with Western tourists, mostly looking like hippies, wearing baggy clothes and with long hair, in dreadlock style. It didn’t take long to find why this little town, which looks more like a village, was so crowded. Dalai Lama, the most important person in Dharamsala was in town! Dine and I were overly excited to know that on the very next day, we would be able to listen to His Holiness’s teachings in his temple (free of charge!). After that, we had to queue up for about an hour to make our registration for the next day.

Buddha Statue inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dawa, our Volunteer Project Coordinator, took us for a quick visit to Dalai Lama’s temple (Tsuglagkhang Temple), which is located in McLeod Ganj, upper Dharamsala. We also saw his house from the outside, which is easily positioned in front of the temple. Both places looked very simple, without all the ostentation of the temples in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra. Although this was somehow expected since Dalai Lama leads a modest life. In the temple, we saw that many people had already reserved their seats for the next day, placing thin mattresses on the floor with their name on them.

Inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dalai Lama's House in Dharamsala

TIBETAN PRAYER WHEELS

The prayer wheel, also known as Mani wheel, is a cylindrical wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, stone, leather or cotton. Traditionally, the mantra (prayer) “Om Mani Padme Hum” is written in the Sanskrit language on the outside of the wheel. According to the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, spinning a prayer wheel will have the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. We saw many pilgrims spinning the prayer wheels as they walked around Dalai Lama’s temple.

Prayer Wheel at Dalai Lama's Temple

The most common meaning offered for the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is usually “Behold! The jewel in the lotus!” or “Praise to the jewel in the lotus.” Although it is almost impossible to give one exact meaning for this mantra since it has been interpreted in many ways.

  

THE BIG DAY!

The next day, Dine and I arrived one hour before Dalai Lama’s teaching was due to start. I really thought that we were going to listen to him from the outside gate of the temple. However to my surprise we got really good seats, not far from Dalai Lama’s seating chair, thanks to a goodhearted Tibetan family who made some space for us to sit next to them. This family also lent us a small wool rug each, since they saw that we were totally unprepared for the occasion.

THE TEMPLE'S RITUALS
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Prior to the teaching starting, the temple’s monks served tea to the visitors, who had brought their own mugs with them. Once again, the friendly Tibetan family came to our rescue, lending us one of their mugs. I had a big frown on my face after my first sip of Tibetan tea. It tasted extremely salty to me. I later found out that they add butter and salt to their tea. Dine and I didn’t bring any snacks with us, but it wasn’t a problem since the Tibetan family also shared their mandarin with us. We were so moved with their generosity, as in Delhi and in other parts of India, we felt that all people wanted to do was take from us (especially dollars!), but here we found Tibetan people to be very generous. I thought that perhaps their attitude had to do with the Buddhism teachings of compassion towards all live beings. I felt very happy to be in this place and next to this wonderful Tibetan people.

The biggest moment arrived, when Dalai Lama took the few steps from his house to the temple, crossing right in front of where Dine and I were seated. The experience of awe was felt by many people, bringing tears to their eyes (including my sister!). As for me, I had the biggest smile on my face. It felt like I was seeing a big movie celebrity and felt starstruck! J There were people from all over the world in the temple. To cater for all the different languages, foreigners had to purchase a small radio and earphones to listen to the simultaneous translations being broadcasted in different radio stations.

Radio & Earphones to listen to Dalai Lama's Teachings

Dalai Lama’s talking of tolerance towards others as a means of finding inner peace and leading a happier life, made Dine and I stop to reflect on his words on that day. As we left the temple, we decided to try to be more tolerant towards Indian men, who had annoyed us so much in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur (following us to our house, inside shopping malls, on the streets...). Many of them also stared and smiled at us in a way that made us feel extremely uncomfortable.  They had a sleaze smile. As of today, with our spirits lifted towards humankind, we will try to give Indian men another chance! (Photo below taken from the Internet - no cameras allowed during Dalai Lama's teachings).

The 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet

Lama is an honorific title applied to a spiritual leader in Tibetan Buddhism: "the Dalai Lama". At the age of two, Tenzin Gyatso was recognized as the reincarnation of the 13th Dalai Lama. Thirteen years later, in 1950, he was enthroned as the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet. The Dalai Lama escaped from Tibet and fled to India in 1959, due to the Chinese occupation in his country. The Indian Prime Minister Nehru, although a follower of the Hindu religion, let the Dalai Lama set up a government-in-exile just across the Tibet-India border, in Dharamsala, as this town already had an established Tibetan community and Buddhist monasteries.

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Although living in India for the last 53 years, Dalai Lama was the Political Leader of Tibet until 2011, when he announced his retirement from political life and Dr. Lobsang Sangay was appointed for this position. Dalai Lama still remains the Spiritual Leader of the Tibetan people.

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To learn more about Tibetan’s history you can watch a very revealing 30 minute documentary on the Internet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HhKF4_-9g8&noredirect=1  - The Burning Question: Why are Tibetans Turning to Self-Immolation?
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Being in the presence of Dalai Lama in India was a big gift for me during this trip.

Sightseeing in Delhi

Amongst so much pollution, noisy and big crowds of people and animals on the streets of Delhi, it’s possible to find some incredibly peaceful and beautiful places within the city to escape its daily craziness.

Initially my sister and I had planning on exploring Delhi via metro, but we soon realized that it would take a lot more days than only a weekend to do this. It was also a challenge asking Indian people on the streets information on how to find the places, as most of them speak only Hindi. Arriving at the Red Fort, in Old Delhi, we spotted various tour guides with their four wheel drive Jeeps parked near the fort. Fortunately, they spoke English! We hired a guide for around US$20 dollars each. We found this an easier and inexpensive way of travelling around Delhi. Rajits mobile number 9213 536 303.

Tour Guide Rajit with Dine in Delhi

 NEW AND OLD DELHI

The capital city of Delhi has a population of nearly 14 million people, being the second largest metropolitan city in India (Mumbai being the first).  The city is divided into Old and New Delhi.

Old Delhi is chaotic and dirty with old building constructions (like they are going to fall apart at any moment). Riding on a rickshaw (bicycle carriage) trough Chandni Chowk’s Market Street, in Old Delhi, made me fell claustrophobic and a bit fearful, since it was getting dark and we had waved farewell to our tour guide. Although after watching Dine enjoying herself seating next to me, I decided to change my mindset looking at it as another adventure, which did help to put me at easy.

Messy Street in Old Delhi - Chandni Chowk Market

New Delhi was developed by the British, with elegant building constructions well preserved to this day. This part of the city was formally inaugurated as New Delhi in 1931. New Delhi is clean and vastly surrounded by beautiful old trees. It comes as no surprise that most tourists will stay in New Delhi when they come to the capital city of India.

President House alongside Parliament House - New Delhi

LOTUS TEMPLE

My favourite place in Delhi was the Bahai Temple or Lotus temple, which resembles the Sydney Opera House, but with a shape of a lotus flower instead. The difference between the two buildings is that the temple has its petals turned inward and the second has its petals turned outward. The Lotus temple is also surrounded by swimming pools of fresh water and the Opera House is surrounded by sea water.

Lotus Temple

This was a challenging construction as the building has no pillars to support itself. The completion of the temple took 10 years, being inaugurated in 1986. It has 27 petals and is surrounded by 9 swimming pools, which help to cool down the temple naturally. The room inside the temple accommodates 2500 people. Its lotus structure is made of white marble, which is the Indian national symbol of spiritual growth. (Photo below taken from the Internet)

Aerial View of Lotus Temple

This was the only temple in India so far, where I really felt at peace and actually sat down to pray. It’s not allowed to take photos inside the temple, which I believe contributes to create its peaceful and quiet atmosphere. It also stood out for me that this temple has no images of Gods as they embrace all religions. (Photo below taken from the Internet)

Room inside Lotus Temple

It’s free to visit this temple, compared to many others, where they charge tourists a significant amount of rupees to get in. It seemed to me that in this temple their main concern wasn’t making money, but truly getting people to be in touch with God. I left this place feeling uplifted.

My Favourite Temple in Delhi

MAHATMA GANDHI MEMORIAL

Raj Ghat is a beautiful and well kept garden built in Gandhi’s honor, one of the biggest personalities in India. In the middle of the garden there is a platform built in black marble, where Gandhi was cremated in 1948.  Although his ashes are not kept in this garden, they were thrown into the Ganges River. It’s free to visit this park, which is open from 6am to 6pm.

Raj Chat Park

Mahatma Gandi's Place of Cremation

Gandhi’s work owned him the title of ‘Mahatma’ in India, meaning a person who is greatly revered for his goodness and knowledge. Son of a politician and graduated in Law, Gandhi was a very polemic personality in India. He was nominated to the Nobel Peace Prize five times, although he never received this award.

The Golden Gandhi Statue at National Gandhi Museum

Gandhi Smriti was the house where Gandhi lived until the day of his assassination. He was shot by a Hindu radical, who blamed him for weakening the Indian Government. Although even after his assassination, Gandhi’s legacy is still strongly felt throughout India. There are several museums in Delhi exhibiting his nonviolence philosophy in India and other parts of the world. Gandhi’s house also turned into a museum, free of entry.

Gandhi Smriti Museum

Place of Gandhi's Assassination

INDIRA GANDHI MEMORIAL MUSEUM

Indira Gandhi was another great leader in Indian politics. Similarly to Gandhi’s fate, Indira was assassinated in her own house. She was shot by her two private bodyguards in 1984. Indira’s murders, who belonged to the ‘Sikh’ religion, blamed Indira for a big bloodshed of Sikhs in Amritsar, due to religious disputes. They revenged the Sikhs’s deaths with Indira’s killing. Nowadays, Indira’s house stands as a memorial in her honor and a museum exhibiting her private and political life.

Indira Gandhi's Memorial Museum

Indira Gandhi's Place of Assassination

Due to Indira’s surname, she can be mistakenly considered as part of Mahatma Gandhi’s family by some (myself included here!). Indira received Gandhy’s name after her marriage to Jehangir Gandhy, which later on was changed to ‘Gandhi’. Some Indian people say that Indira used her ‘Gandhi’ surname to win votes during her political campaign, making people believe that she was related to Mahatma Gandhi. Indira became the first Prime Minister of India in 1966. Indira’s work was renowned worldwide.

Although Indira has no family relation to Gandhi, they shared many things in common, such as having the same name, being children of politicians, becoming great leaders and ultimately having the same fate of being assassinated in their own house.

INDIA GATE

Also known as the ‘All Indian Wall Memorial’, this National monument was another place we visited, also related to the bloodshed of many lives. This gate was inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, standing 42 meters tall. It was built in 1931 in honor of the 90,000 Indian soldiers, who lost their lives fighting during the First World War in the British Indian Army. The Indian Gate is situated in the heart of New Delhi and the visit is free.

India Gate

Volunteer Work in Delhi

The NGO I signed up to do volunteer work in Delhi is called Volunteering Activity.  This organization has been running volunteer projects in Delhi and Dharamshala for the last ten years. The NGO’s founder, Ananta Kumar, and the project’s coordinator Arjun are very friendly and caring. Prior to starting our volunteer work, all volunteers attended a very helpful orientation session. VA's webiste: < http://volunteeringactivity.org/index.html >.

 

TEACHING ENGLISH TO CHILDREN

My sister and I spent four weeks in Delhi, teaching English to children and to women in a small school in the Nehru slum, in Faridabad. The residents in this slum knew a few words in English, but they spoke mostly Hindi language.

Children of Morning Light School

The Morning Light School currently supports around 40 children, who are divided into 2 classes ran by 2 young teachers (Sheela and Anita). It’s extremely hot inside the small classes, which have no desks or chairs. The students seat on the floor with their legs crossed, one nearly on top of another, so they can all fit in the class. They also have very little school material. Dine and I gave pencils to all the children who didn’t have one, but some of them would leave their new pencils at home and keep asking us for more.

Sheela scowling at me for disturbing her class J

Due to the intolerable heat and frequent electricity power cuts in Delhi, we often had to run our English classes outside, in the school patio. Although outdoor classes were not always ideal due to the distraction brought to the students by people and animals passing by next to the school patio. Curious men, women and other children (who are not attending school) often stopped by to watch our classes. Sometimes they even started talking to us or to the students in the middle of a class. We then had to ask them to leave, so we could keep teaching.

Outdoor Class - Colouring Activity

Pig crossing corridor next to the school patio

THE EXTREME SMELLS OF INDIA

There were no toilets in the school, so we tried not to drink too much water while we were there. When the children needed to use the toilet some would go home, but the majority would pee on the open sewage next to the school. The hardest thing for me working in this school was the sewage’s dreadful smell. L Open sewages are found everywhere throughout the slum, so the children and teachers are quite used to their rotten smell.

Open sewage next to the school

Another strong and frequent smell in the slum and throughout Delhi is of cow dung, but this one I can put up with without a problem. I think I’m even getting used to it. J Cow dung is very useful for the poor community in India. The women make cow dung cakes, which they use as fuel to light up the fire for cooking in their homes. They also use them to patch up the walls in their homes or huts. The extremes in India are a constant though. When I don't smell the cow manure on the streets, I smell the very good aromas of incense sticks, coming from the temples and houses nearby. India is a blow to all our senses!

Woman patching up wall with cow dung

WOMEN EMPOWERMENT PROJECT

To this day women in India have little voice. The project of teaching English to teenagers and young female adults. was to give them a better life prospect. The biggest challenge we faced teaching English to Indian women was the communication gap. We need a reasonable good translator, who could speak Hindi and English to help us with our classes. Our 12 years old translator Julie, although inexperienced, tried to help us as best as she could. The teenagers and young adults were really keen on attending our classes. It was a pleasure teaching English to them! 

Teaching  English to women with Julie's help

At times it was very tiring trying to communicate with the children and the women in the slum, with our broken Hindi and their broken English, but they were always so happy to see us. They always had big smiles on their faces. To contribute in a small way giving these children and women hope of a better life made this experience well worth.

Eager learner

First Glimpses of India

'Incredible India' is the country’s motto, but after sightseeing through Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, I think this slogan should be changed to 'Crazy India'! Many people come here looking for peace, but apart from a few quiet temples and mosques, my first impression of this country is of total chaos. Mind you, I thought the same of Kenya and just loved the country.   

Discovering Incredible India

INDIA’S CRAZY ROAD TRAFFIC

The road traffic in India has to be the craziest I’ve seen so far in my life and doubtless a huge shock to foreigners, who haven’t visited a third world country before. I’ve been to other countries, where the traffic is quite crazy, like Lima in Peru and even in my own country in Brazil, but in India it’s something beyond believe. The traffic lights seem to be on the roads just as decoration items, since no one respects them. A two road street also doesn’t mean much to the Indian drivers as cars, motorbikes, tuk tuks (a three wheel motorbike) and rickshaws (bicycle carriages) drive on both directions at any given time.

Road traffic in Delhi

Tuk tuk

Rickshaw

One thing that drives me mad in Delhi is the way all drivers constantly blow their horns while they are driving. Signs can be seen on the back of trucks saying “Please Horn” or “Blow Horn”. They blow their horns to other drivers, to pedestrians, to animals on the road and sometimes they just seem to do it out of sheer pleasure.

Truck with the sign "Blow Horn"

The animals found on the road, and at times crossing them, are many. Mostly they include huge cows, pigs and dogs, often accompanied by their bunch of calves, piglets and puppies. There are also donkeys, camels and horses, but in smaller numbers.

Camel on the roadside having a lunch break

HOLY COW

Cows are considered sacred by Hindus (the most followed religion in India) therefore these animals are allowed to roam freely on the roads. They are used to the hectic Indian traffic, grazing unpreoccupied on the roadside grass and munching on the food given away by people on the streets. Krishna, one of the most important Hindu Gods, had cows as pets, as illustrated in many Indian paintings. For this reason cows are venerated by Hindus and can be seen everywhere in India. It’s no surprise that Hindus are vegetarians! (Photo taken from the Internet)

God Krishna with his holy cows

NEW HOME IN INDIA
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It took my sister and I by surprise when we arrived at our host family home. Since we were told by the NGO in India that Faridabad was a kind of rural area, about 45kms from Delhi, we were expecting also a kind of rural house. Instead we found ourselves in front of a modern three storey building. Our host family lives in a modern 4 bedroom apartment with three ensuite bathrooms. The best surprise though was to find out that they had hot shower with running water! My sister and I are delighted to know that we will not have to endure weeks of ‘bucket shower” with boiled water, like we did in Kenya (although the experience contributed to toughen us up! J). 

Host family's residence

HOST FAMILY

For the next four weeks we will be living with Doctor Prabhat, his wife Sushma, his father Jagdish, (who is also a doctor), and the couple’s twins Samrat and Aryan. We have known them for a little while but already find all of them lovely, even the grandpa, who looks very serious on the photo. 

Clau with Host Family

THE GORGEOUS TWINS

Samrat and Aryan, 4.5 years old, are very naughty! They enter our room as they wish, collecting whatever they want and always without asking. I had to run after them to collect my stuff back several times. We often play together and have good belly laughs, trying to communicate with them with our broken Hindi. They call us "didi', which in Hindi means sisters. We love them to bits already!

Samrat & Aryan playing with us in our room

ARRANGED MARRIAGES IN INDIA

To this day, 70% of Indian people have arranged marriages. Although man and woman are allowed to say ‘no’ to their arranged marriage, if after their initial meeting they dislike their prospective bride or groom. According to their customs, after the wedding party, the bride has to go and live with her husband’s family. Our host parents, Prabhat and Sushma, had an arranged married and only met twice before their wedding party.

TRADITIONAL CLOTHING

According to the Indian culture, after a woman got married she had to wear a Sari for the rest of her life. Nowadays, things are changing in India and in the big cities women can wear other kinds of clothes, such as “kurtas” (collarless long shirts) and leggings. Although in small villages, often rural areas, this norm still remains strong.

Generally, an Indian sari can measure between 5 to 6 meters. This long piece of fabric is wrapped around a woman’s body, hiding their shoulders and knees, as these body parts are considered sensual. On the other hand, it’s alright to show off their bellies. What I love about Indian clothes is that they are so colorful. Dine and I couldn’t help ourselves and got wrapped up in saris, while shopping at Trilok’s shop, in Jaipur. J Trilok wrapped the sari so many times around my body that it looks like I have a big waist.

Dine and I wearing an Indian Sari 

INDIAN CUISINE

Sushma, our host mother, is a great cook. Everyday she cooks fresh and laborious traditional Indian food, including dahl (lentil curry), steamed rice, Baigan Ka Bharta (spiced-smashed eggplants), Gobi Aloo (spiced cauliflower with potatoes), chapatti (a kind of Indian bread) etc. The food is served in small stainless steel dishes and balls. Due to the small portions we have to make several trips to the kitchen to get more food. J

Traditional India food - Dahl wwith Chapatti

Mountain Hiking in Kenya

This would not be a proper trip without some mountain hiking. Since my sister and I did not have enough time to hike Mt Kilimanjaro (and probably not enough fitness!), we chose two other hiking spots, which are also very popular in Kenya - Ngong Hills and Mt Longonott.

  

NGONG HILLS HIKING
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Ngong Hills is a very historical site in Kenya, situated about 2 hours on road from Nairobi city. This place was put on the map by Karen Blixen’s bestseller book “Out of Africa”, which later became a renowned movie. Having watched the movie and read the book, I was really looking forward to hiking these famous hills.


Ngong Hills

Karen’s vast coffee farm was located at the foothills of Ngong Hills. She was from Denmark and lived in Kenya from 1914 to 1931. The city of Nairobi named a suburb after Karen’s name, to honor everything she did for the Kenyan people during her time in Africa. Nowadays, this is one of the wealthiest suburbs in Nairobi, being mostly occupied by the less than 1% of white Kenyans.



View from the First Hill with huge Wind Turbines

To hike the seven hills takes approximately 5 hours, depending on one’s fitness. The first five peaks you walk through wide spaces bordered by vegetation. The last two peaks the walk is through narrow passageways surrounded by bush.

PARK RANGERS AND HIKING GUIDES

This is not a free hike. There is an entrance fee of around US$8 dollars at the gate of this National Park. There are also armed rangers, who will charge tourists around US$50 dollars (a huge amount in Kenyan currency!) to accompany them on the hike and protect them from possible thieves. These rangers can be very pushy and intimidating, trying to persuade tourists to hire their services (at least this was our experience with them).

My sister and I, together with Fiona, another volunteer, hired the services of hiking guide for US$18 dollars. Peter was not armed with a gun, but with a wood stick, since he was a Maasai. He was a very nice guide. Peter's mobile number 0711 703 484.

Dine, Fiona and I on the Fourth Hill

SAFE TIP!
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For those not wishing to hire the services of rangers or hiking guides, it’s highly recommended to go on big groups, mixed with male and females. This is to avoid bad experiences, such as being mugged by thieves hiding in the bush, as this has happened to tourists in the past.
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During our hike, we joined a very animated group of Kenyan University students. They were also volunteers, but for the local Red Cross. They were undergraduate students from different courses and were there to bond with each other (since we joined their group, it included bonding with us too!). They were very kind sharing their food and drinks with us. We also had a good laugh playing some funny group games with them, which later we taught them to children in the orphanage.

Dine, Fiona and I with the University Group

The wildlife we found on these hills included goats, cows and this nice chameleon. We also heard that you can spot buffalos there, but it does not happen very often.

Wildlife at Ngong Hills - Chameleon

The views from the seven hills were stunning, making this another worthwhile hike. It was also very nice to go up the mountains to breathe some fresh air, since Nairobi city is so full of dust and pollution.

MOUNT LONGONOTT HIKING
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Mt Longonott is a dormant volcano, situated in Naivasha, a town about 200kms from Nairobi city. According to our hiking guide Fred, its last eruption was around 150 years ago. Fred also told us that the original name of this volcano was Oloonongot, but it was modified by the British to Longonot, since they could not pronounce the original name properly.

Longonott Volcano

This was the first time my sister and I hiked up a volcano. Is was a steep and dirty hike, but well worthy once you reach the top and can admire the splendid view. Depending on one’s fitness it can take up to 1.5h to 2hours to reach the top and a bit less to go down. Hiking boots are highly recommended as there are some slippery patches with ashes. Wearing dark clothes is also wise, since hikers will get completely covered with ashes, just like we did. J

Volcano's crater

Volcano's ashes

Walking around the crater can take up to 4 hours, depending on one’s fitness. Some people even venture themselves going down in the crater, but we heard that it can be a bit slippery and dangerous, so we skipped it. Before going downhill, we stopped in a nice shaded spot, where a kiosk was recently built, to have some snacks while we appreciate the magnificent view and peaceful surroundings.
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Walking around the crater with guide Fred

This is not a free hike also. The entrance fee is around US$ 20 dollars, to be paid at the gate of the National Park. The hiking guides charge around US$20 to hike up and down the mountain and around $30 dollars if you want to walk around the crater. It’s not necessary to book their services in advance. We thought it was worth paying for a guide, as they explain about the history of the place, which we find very interesting. Fred was such a nice guide and very knowledgeable. Fred's mobile number 0701 277 533.
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Goodbye Kenya!

Longonott was the last place we visited in Kenya. Dine and I are now heading off to our next destination in India!