Dalai Lama’s Home in India

Our time in Delhi came to an end. Now, my sister and I are in Dharamsala (Himachal Pradesh state), which is Dalai Lama’s hometown in India. This stunning place is surrounded by hills, which belong to the Himalayan mountain range. Its residents are mostly Tibetan refugees, who took exile here and in the neighboring areas to escape China’s dictatorship in their country.

Dharamsala, North of India

In Dharamsala the cows also wander freely on the streets, just like in Delhi. The only difference is that here the streets are a lot narrower than Delhi, making it a challenge sharing the space with these big animals as well as the cars, motorbikes, tuk tuks, jeeps, buses and trucks. But it’s all part of the journey and Dine and I seemed to be getting used to it, the more time we spend in India.

Cows wandering on the streets of Dharamsala

It was a pleasure to go shopping in the street market in this town. The Tibetan people didn’t hassle us at all to buy their merchandises, like the Indians in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur did. We also felt that that they didn’t charge us exorbitant tourist prices for their goods like the Indian people did.

DALAI LAMA'S IN TOWN!

When we arrived in Dharamsala, we found the place packed with Western tourists, mostly looking like hippies, wearing baggy clothes and with long hair, in dreadlock style. It didn’t take long to find why this little town, which looks more like a village, was so crowded. Dalai Lama, the most important person in Dharamsala was in town! Dine and I were overly excited to know that on the very next day, we would be able to listen to His Holiness’s teachings in his temple (free of charge!). After that, we had to queue up for about an hour to make our registration for the next day.

Buddha Statue inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dawa, our Volunteer Project Coordinator, took us for a quick visit to Dalai Lama’s temple (Tsuglagkhang Temple), which is located in McLeod Ganj, upper Dharamsala. We also saw his house from the outside, which is easily positioned in front of the temple. Both places looked very simple, without all the ostentation of the temples in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra. Although this was somehow expected since Dalai Lama leads a modest life. In the temple, we saw that many people had already reserved their seats for the next day, placing thin mattresses on the floor with their name on them.

Inside Dalai Lama's Temple

Dalai Lama's House in Dharamsala

TIBETAN PRAYER WHEELS

The prayer wheel, also known as Mani wheel, is a cylindrical wheel on a spindle made from metal, wood, stone, leather or cotton. Traditionally, the mantra (prayer) “Om Mani Padme Hum” is written in the Sanskrit language on the outside of the wheel. According to the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, spinning a prayer wheel will have the same effect as orally reciting the prayers. We saw many pilgrims spinning the prayer wheels as they walked around Dalai Lama’s temple.

Prayer Wheel at Dalai Lama's Temple

The most common meaning offered for the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is usually “Behold! The jewel in the lotus!” or “Praise to the jewel in the lotus.” Although it is almost impossible to give one exact meaning for this mantra since it has been interpreted in many ways.

  

THE BIG DAY!

The next day, Dine and I arrived one hour before Dalai Lama’s teaching was due to start. I really thought that we were going to listen to him from the outside gate of the temple. However to my surprise we got really good seats, not far from Dalai Lama’s seating chair, thanks to a goodhearted Tibetan family who made some space for us to sit next to them. This family also lent us a small wool rug each, since they saw that we were totally unprepared for the occasion.

THE TEMPLE'S RITUALS
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Prior to the teaching starting, the temple’s monks served tea to the visitors, who had brought their own mugs with them. Once again, the friendly Tibetan family came to our rescue, lending us one of their mugs. I had a big frown on my face after my first sip of Tibetan tea. It tasted extremely salty to me. I later found out that they add butter and salt to their tea. Dine and I didn’t bring any snacks with us, but it wasn’t a problem since the Tibetan family also shared their mandarin with us. We were so moved with their generosity, as in Delhi and in other parts of India, we felt that all people wanted to do was take from us (especially dollars!), but here we found Tibetan people to be very generous. I thought that perhaps their attitude had to do with the Buddhism teachings of compassion towards all live beings. I felt very happy to be in this place and next to this wonderful Tibetan people.

The biggest moment arrived, when Dalai Lama took the few steps from his house to the temple, crossing right in front of where Dine and I were seated. The experience of awe was felt by many people, bringing tears to their eyes (including my sister!). As for me, I had the biggest smile on my face. It felt like I was seeing a big movie celebrity and felt starstruck! J There were people from all over the world in the temple. To cater for all the different languages, foreigners had to purchase a small radio and earphones to listen to the simultaneous translations being broadcasted in different radio stations.

Radio & Earphones to listen to Dalai Lama's Teachings

Dalai Lama’s talking of tolerance towards others as a means of finding inner peace and leading a happier life, made Dine and I stop to reflect on his words on that day. As we left the temple, we decided to try to be more tolerant towards Indian men, who had annoyed us so much in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur (following us to our house, inside shopping malls, on the streets...). Many of them also stared and smiled at us in a way that made us feel extremely uncomfortable.  They had a sleaze smile. As of today, with our spirits lifted towards humankind, we will try to give Indian men another chance! (Photo below taken from the Internet - no cameras allowed during Dalai Lama's teachings).

The 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet

Lama is an honorific title applied to a spiritual leader in Tibetan Buddhism: "the Dalai Lama". At the age of two, Tenzin Gyatso was recognized as the reincarnation of the 13th Dalai Lama. Thirteen years later, in 1950, he was enthroned as the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet. The Dalai Lama escaped from Tibet and fled to India in 1959, due to the Chinese occupation in his country. The Indian Prime Minister Nehru, although a follower of the Hindu religion, let the Dalai Lama set up a government-in-exile just across the Tibet-India border, in Dharamsala, as this town already had an established Tibetan community and Buddhist monasteries.

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Although living in India for the last 53 years, Dalai Lama was the Political Leader of Tibet until 2011, when he announced his retirement from political life and Dr. Lobsang Sangay was appointed for this position. Dalai Lama still remains the Spiritual Leader of the Tibetan people.

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To learn more about Tibetan’s history you can watch a very revealing 30 minute documentary on the Internet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HhKF4_-9g8&noredirect=1  - The Burning Question: Why are Tibetans Turning to Self-Immolation?
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Being in the presence of Dalai Lama in India was a big gift for me during this trip.